Colombia to Panama on the Darien Coast

NOTE – this is the only SAFE way to travel to Panama overland from Colombia. Any inlands routes through the Darien Gap are very dangerous because of armed groups, see my posts here on a traveller who was killed there in 2013, which have travel advice for area.
– Lost in the Darien Gap
– Killed in the Darien Gap
For posts on the Chocó see
Nuqui, on the Chocó coast
Alto Baudó, Colombia’s forgotten corner

You fly from Medellin to Acandi airport, on the Darien coast. . Flights are with SATENA or ADA and tickets can be bought online, best in advance. 
The airport in Acandì. There are no cars here, just motos and horse and carts
This is the river where boats dock in Acandi, and where you will get a motorboat to Capurgana. The sky is always like this in the Choco – brooding and rainy. But usually the sun is not far away. There are plenty of boats going to Capurgana, the ride is 40 minutes and the boat is open. Wear a raincoat and put your rucksack in a large plastic bag (they sell them at the waterfront).
Arriving in  Capurgana, which is 40 minutes boat ride north of Acandì. This is a small resort with hotels, seafood restuarants, and some nightlife. IT GETS BUSY ON WEEKENDS, especially bank holidays. If you want tranquillity come on a weekday and off season. There are no ATMs here so bring CASH. Most things – toileteries, suncream,souvenirs, you can buy here and organise diving, jungle walks and even yacht trips. You can also get motorboats further up to Panama and Central America but get your passport stamped out in Colombia first.

Plenty of hotels like this one where Ernest Hemingway would feel at home. You pay more for a seaview and balcony, but worth it. Costs are cheap compared to anywhere else in the Caribbean.
At last a hammock! And great view of the Capurgana bay and rainforest. The water here is often clear (October the best month for vis) and there are lots of fish. I saw a huge barracuda when I went snorkelling around the town jetty. Most places hire fins and snorkels.
Exploring the coast
Sapzurro Harbour. this small village is 30 mins by boat north of Capurgana, or you can walk by a slipper track through the jungle, can take a few hours. Boats leave regularly from the jetties. Sapzurro has some small restaurants and lodges and is much more laid-back than Capurgana.

From Sapzurro there is a stone path leading up to the border post with Panama. It takes maybe 30 mins. Usually at the post are police checking people going to Panama. THIS IS NOT AN IMMIGRATION POST, if you want to travel on the Panama you need to exit at the Immigration office in Capurgana. The day we were here the border post was deserted.
Looking towards Panama. The stone steps lead down to La Miel, a tiny Panameñan village where you can get a beer and maybe lunch.
The beach at La Miel in Panama. It’s often deserted.
Landing in a storm in Medellin