Hiking to Colombia’s tropical glaciers

Climbing up to tropical glaciers in Colombia’s El Cocuy National Park is one of the continents great thrills, and it’s not too difficult, assuming you are a hiker and already spent time in Andean altitudes.

But it is a trek tinged with sadness as you scramble over rugged moraine fields exposed by retreating ice. Colombia’s glaciers, according to the latest research, will be gone in 30 years. See it while you still can.

Treking over morraine fields to reach El Cocuy's melting glaciers — *Treking over morraine fields to reach El Cocuy’s melting glaciers*. *The clouds come down around 10am most days, so hike early.*

To give it its proper name, the Sierra Nevada of Güicán, El Cocuy and Chita is the largest glacial mass in Colombia made up of more than 25 peaks covered in ice and snow, in two mountain ranges approximately 25 kilometres long by 4 kilometres wide.

*The rugged scenery of Laguna Grande, at 4,400 metres, on the roof of Colombia.*

The snow-capped peaks range from 4,800 to 5,330 metres high, and the most recognised are Campanillas Blanco, Pan de Azúcar, Púlpito del Diablo, Cóncavos, Ritakuwas and Güicán.

Dotted among the peaks are 150 lakes and páramo Andean moorland leading down to jungle and creating a home to a great diversity of fauna and flora species.

There are two start points to enter the park, the small traditional towns of Güicán (2,963m above sea level) and El Cocuy (2,750m) north-east corner of Boyacá. Both get very chilly at night.

Both can be reached in a 10-hour trip by direct bus from Bogotá (it usually travels at night).

*Libertadores bus arriving in El Cocuy, 10 hours from Bogotá*

Do-it-yourself trek

You will find lots of tour companies offering expensive all-in hiking trips from Bogotá, but you can just as easily rock up in Güicán or El Cocuy, find a cheap hotel, and organise your own trip.

The EXCEPTION is in the very high season, usually in early January (when Colombians all take holiday), Semana Santa (the week before easter). Some bank holidays (´puentes’) can also book out. At these time you may need to pre-book hotels and treks.

The park has three different day treks which all reach the glaciers. Overnighting in the park is forbidden. Note there are many other nice walks and activities around the area, and many great viewpoints of the glaciers which you can enjoy without entering the park.

It is obligatory to hire a local guide, pay park entrance fee, and small ‘hike insurance’ fee. If you join a small group, the guide will be cheaper (maximum 5 persons per guide). Usually everything can be organised the day before you hike, but allow two days to be sure (and also acclimatise).

*The town of El Cocuy. There are plenty of gentle hikes in the hills behind the town, and best to spend a few days to acclimatise before heading to the high peaks.*

The hotels can help to locate a guide, or arrange for you to join a group, and pay the park fee in the town. You can also get all the help and latest advice from the National Park Offices in Güicán or El Cocuy, they can also hook you up with a guide and show you where to buy the obligatory hike insurance.

NOTE: The Parques Nacionales website says that you have to reserve and pay 1 month in advance. But this is not enforced, you can book the day before in El Cocuy.

*El Cocuy is a traditional Boyacá town which has seen its fair share of poverty and conflict in recent decades.*

Guerrillas in the mist

In decades past the Sierra El Cocuy had a world-famous circular trek, lasting up to a week. This was scrapped some years back for ´environmental´reasons, which was a cover-up for the fact that the ELN guerrilla group has its strongholds on the backside of the mountain (the slope leading to the Arauca Llanos).

The ELN are still there (and in some other parts of eastern Boyacá) but do not pose a problem for tourists if you do not wander off the main paths.

*The El Cocuy massif from Guiacany Finca, where you can also rent cabins, close to the Lagunillas-Pulpito trail.*

Which trek?

Ok, so the overnight treks are now banned, but you can do three beautiful day treks starting from your base in El Cocuy or Güicán, or from a hostel or farmstead further up the mountain. These are:

– Laguna Grande de la Sierra Trail: starting at the La Esperanza finca (farm) at 3,600m, heads up to the edge of the Pico Cóncavo glacier at 4,700m. This is a 20-kilometre return trek.

*The upper part of the Laguna Grande de La Sierra trek, Andean paramó with freilejones plants.*

– Lagunillas – Pulpito Trail: from 4,000 m above sea level above the Sisuma cabin, and passing through the Hotelito to the edge of the glacier of Pico Pulpito del Diablo, (Devil’s Pulpit) at 4,820m altitude. This is a length of 16-kilometre return trek.

*Valley view from the park entrance at Los Herrara, looking towards El Pulpito: the Devil’s Pulpit*.

On the roof of Colombia in El Cocuy National Park. The Devil's Pulpit seen from the back on the Laguna Grande trek. — *The Devil’s Pulpit seen from the back on the Laguna Grande trek.*

– Ritacuba Trail: starting from the elevation of 4,000m above sea level, to the edge of the glacier of the Ritacuba Blanco peak at 4,800m, a 14-kilometre return trip.

Map of the 3 day trek routes, ‘ItaUwa’ on the left is the Ritacuba Blanco peak trail. The Laguna Grande starts at Finca La Esperanza, and the Pulpito trail is on the right starting at the Los Herrara entrance.

Some tips….

Best months are January and February (dry season). July to November can be more rainy.

*Riding at Guaicany Finca. There are plenty of activities outside the park boundaries, all with great views of the glaciers.*

Don’t rush. Allow yourself at least three days in the area before the high trek. Hang out in one the towns and make some small local walks to acclimatise. This also gives time to book your trek and find a group..

Remember, each trek has a daily limit of hikers, so you might not get your first choice. Laguna Grande has most spaces (175), but is a longer walk (20kms, 10 hours) and gains the most altitude (1,100 metres). Maximum 5 hikers per guide.

Hike early. You need to be the first on the trail at 5am (take a head torch), and keep pushing to get the top before the clouds come down, usually around 10am. Late arrivals at the glaciers miss all the views.

You need good walking boots (ankle support) warm cloths and waterproofs, plus sun hat. Bring snacks and plenty of water. Temperatures can drop to -4C.

*Finca La Esperanza, you can overnight here before the Laguna Grande trek, or get a taxi here early in the morning for a 5am start.*

You can set out from your hotel in Güicán or El Cocuy, or organise to overnight closer to the trailhead at one of the farmhouse hostels on the mountain. Your guide will advise you.

Don’t moan about having to use a local guide for the high-altitude treks. This brings employment to local campesinos in communities with extreme poverty and a long history of armed conflict.

Soak in the hot springs close to Güicán after your hike.

*Trail of Climate change: trekking in El Cocuy brings home sad reality of the shrinking glaciers*

Costs in 2022 were:

National Park entrance: Foreigners $79,000 (US$16), Colombian older than 25 years $38,500, Under 25 years of age $22,500. Entrance covers several treks.
Guide hire: $120,000 (US$25) for five hikers per trek.
Trek insurance: $7,000 per day per person.
Bus from Bogotá: $90,000 (US$18), Coflonorte Libertadores / Expreso Paz de Rio

Parques Nacionales offices:

El Cocuy: Calle 5 # 4-22. Monday – Sunday, 7am – 11:45am and 1pm – 4:45pm. Tel: (57 8) 789 0359
Guican: Transversal 4a # 6-60. Monday – Sunday, 7am – 11:45am and 1pm – 4:45pm. Tel: (57 8) 789 7280