Take the plunge in Guaviare

I also wrote about the are in The City Paper in 2015

Crossing the Rio Guaviare on the Nowen Bridge close to San José. Improved roads have brought the region within a (long) day’s drive from Bogotá.

Every week my kids remind me ‘when are we going back to Guaviare?’.Our visit left a deep impression on them. The large department has rivers that flow into both the Orinoco and Amazon, and is formed geologically by the outer edge of the
270 million-hectare Guiana Shield which encompasses Guyana, Suriname, French Guiana, Venezuela and small parts of Colombia and northern Brazil and holds 18% of the world’s tropical forest carbon and 20% of the world’s fresh water The eroded mountain ranges of Serrania La Lindosa feel old, like outback Australia, because are old: from a two-billion old geological formation that around even before the dinosaurs. There are unusual rock formations, amazing clear rivers and prehistoric forests. And it’s all just a day’s drive from Bogotá.

Swimming in the clear pools at Tranquilandia, a balneario (swimming hole) close to San José
Main tourist sites around San José del Guaviare

Sightseeing: if you have your own transport, you can drive to the main sites on the map above. The swimming hole at Tranquilandia is reached by the main road (in red) and other sites (Charco La Lindosa, Pozos Naturales) from the dirt road (in orange) running along the top of the Serrania La Lindoso.

Walking in the Serrania, red algae Macarenia clavigera in the rivers, and the entrance to the Pozos Naturales (natural pools)
Cargo boats on the Rio Guaviare
Playing in the natural pools. You need good rubber shoes for the sharp rocks.
Tranquilandia, a popular picnic spot and busy on Sundays.

How long: In two days you can get a good taste of the region, though as more tourist sites open up a longer trip will be needed. For a longer stay there are many attractions such as river dolphins in the Lake de Dama del Nare, the Guayabero Rapids, and the Rock Paintings of Cerro Azul.
For more information these activities check out these links:

When to go: to enjoy the rivers and pools, go in the rainy season (usually rains just a few hours a day and is sunshine in the mornings) from May to November. In the dry season some small rivers dry up. In heavy rain some areas may be closed off.

Getting there

Car: San Jose del Guaviare is 396kms southeast of Bogota, with all good road, and you can drive it in seven hours. At time of writing (October 2015) the road was safe and without recent incidents, but this can change so check latest news reports before setting off, and check with the police in Granada (the last large town before San Jose) for updates. There are five road tolls Bogota – Granada, about COP 50,000 total. Fuel up before leaving Granada.

 Bus: Flota La Macarena, see their website for details.

Air: with Satena   from Bogota, daily flights.

Accommodation: there are many small hotels around the downtown area around Cra 22 and Calle 7 some with swimming pools.

Getting around: most sites need a 4×4, though if the roads are dry and you have a strong car then some sites are accessible. In all areas walking is required to bring good shoes, a sun hat, water and snacks. Guides can organise transport locally (see below).  The map we got from the tourist police is scanned here, with km distances to main sites.

Guides (who can orangise transport): the following were active in 2015

Julian Niño 311 577 2165 juliancho_127@hotmail.com
Milton Niño 314 370 1726 yesidmil_006@hotmail.com
Juan Cuero  313 245 0591 juan_cuero@hotmail.com
Edwin Barreto 311 511 8186 edwin.travesias@yahoo.es