Salento and Cocora: Colombia´s charmed valley

The rural town of Salento, with its Valle de Cocora, in heart of Colombia’s Quindío province, was a popular tourist spot even before Disney film producers rocketed the region to fame (and prices rises to match!) with their Oscar-winning film ‘Encanto’.

Posted January 2024. SEE ALSO: Los Llanos, Colombia´s Cowboy Country and Hiking Up Bogotá’s Cerro Aguanoso and Armero on My Mind

The striking wax palms ceroxylon quindiunese dominate the Cocora Valley.
The striking wax palms ceroxylon quindiunese dominate the Cocora Valley in Salento, Quindío.
Disney producers visited Salento as inspiration for the film Encanto
Disney producers visited Salento as inspiration for the film Encanto.

But Let´s Not Talk about Bruno: even though we cheered Disney’s charming depiction of Colombia, locals know there are prettier towns in the coffee country, and towering wax palms (some grow 60 metres tall) grow in many other valleys. But if you want a Gringo-friendly package (and several pizza restaurants to choose from) then Salento is a good bet and the hike (4 hours, 12 kms or 7.5 miles) is highly recommended.

The small town is easy to reach , just over an hour from the cities of Pereira or Armenia, on good roads, and regular buses. It has a wide range of accommodation, from hotels, self-catering apartments and hostels close to the plaza to rural hospedajes, or fincas (farm stays), and camping and glamping. There are plenty of restaurants for most tastes and pockets, and streets lined with souvenirs (many made in China).

Top tips for visiting Salento and Cocora Valley

Some tips:

Salento's main plaza, with jeeps that form the local rural transport.
Salento’s main plaza, with jeeps that form the local rural transport.
  • Allow at least two days in Salento, one day for the Cocora Valley hike and one day for coffee farm visits etc. There are plenty of other activities in the area if you have more time.
  • Visit on weekdays.
  • Avoid weekends and particulary festivos (bank holidays), when it fills up with locals. If you follow this advice there is no need to book anything in advance.
  • Dry season is December to March, with peak rain in October. The climate is mild all year, but rain can make the walking trails muddy and misty.
  • There is a tourist info kiosk in the main plaza.

Salento from the mirador above the town. To the north you can see Nevado del Ruiz snowcap on a clear day
Salento from the mirador above the town. To the north you can see Nevado del Tolima snowcap on a clear day.

Hiking the Cocora Valley.

Bosque De Palmas farmland in the Valle de Cocora.
Bosque De Palmas farmland in the Valle de Cocora.

The Cocora hike is in the Reserva Natural Regional Valle del Cocora encompassing private farms (which can charge hikers for access) and part of a wider network of natural reserves in the Cordillera Central around the massif formed by volcanic snowcaps Nevado del Ruiz, Nevado del Tolima and Nevado de Santa Isabel. You won’t see these mountains from the hike, though you will see them from the mirador (viewpoint) in Salento in clear weather. Note these are active volcanc regions prone to eruptions and recent history´s worst volcanic disaster when Ruiz wiped out the town of Armero…see my blog on Armero here… .

Some hiking tips

  • Hike early to get the sunshine and good views (be first on the trail).
  • Trail starts in the Cocora Valley about 30 minutes drive from Salenta. Jump on a local jeep in the plaza for a ride to the trailhead.
  • If hiking, pack a hat, water, sunscreen, repellent, rainjacket, and wear walking boots if you have them. You can hire rubber boots at the start of the hike if it is very rainy. You can buy water and snacks at the start point.
  • Most guides advise to do the loop counterclockwise, but I have always done it clockwise (see map below) which gets the best views before the clouds come down (most days around 10am). From the entrance and car parks follow the rough road west (red arrows on map below) then climb up to the Finca La Montaña, for coffee and snakcs, then take the steep path down to the Quindio River valley. Then follow the woodland trail across the rickety bridges back east to the trout farm (La Tuchera) and start point.
  • You can’t really get lost so you don’t need a guide or to speak Spanish. Just follow the other hikers.
  • To complete the loop you need to pay 20,000 COP (US$5) to enter the first leg of the walk (a complete rip-off) then 4,000 COP (US$1) to complete the route on the second leg. If you want to visit the Hummingbird Acaime Reserve (optional) there is an additional charge.
Map of the hike. Note the clockwise route (red arrows along hilly path then path with bridges back along river) is best.
Map of the hike. Note the clockwise route (red arrows along hilly path then path with bridges back along river) is best.
Mules on the river track, which can be slippery at times. Hummingbirds at the Acaime Finca.
Mules on the river track, which can be slippery at times. Hummingbirds at the Acaime Finca.
Waterfalls and bridges on the river leg of the hike
Waterfalls and bridges on the river leg of the hike

Coffee Farm visit

No trip to Colombia is complete without a visit to a coffee farm, and the local Finca´s give good tours which you can organise (with transport) in the plaza, we chose the Don Elias tour, but there are many others. Allow 3 hours to stroll around the finca and learn how coffee is made followed up by a fresh brew and chance to buy the local product.