Colombia’s Amazon: La Pedrera

Photos from La Pedrera, Amazonas Department, in Colombia’s Amazon, where I visited in May 2019. These is far off the tourist trail, but I have included tips for visiting below.

For other Amazon posts see:
– Amazon Corners – El Encanto. Where I also visited in June 2019
– The Amazing Amazon, a trip up the Javari River from 2018, and other info
– Getting into the Amazon, some jungle trips around Leticia, from 2017.
– Flying Colombia’s DC-3s how to get airborne in these classic planes.

Deslizador - 'planer' fast boat on the Rio Caquetá, close to La Pedrera, in the remote Colombian Amazon — *Deslizador* – ‘planer’ fast boat on the Rio Caquetá, close to La Pedrera, in the remote Colombian Amazon. The rocky rivers here have many dangerous rapids (*raudales*) which require skilled piloting. Never the less, many people drown in these fast rivers. The Brazil border is a few hours downstream.

Inauguration of the new maloka - communal roundhouse - at the Camaragui community close to La Pedrera. — Inauguration of the new *maloka* – communal roundhouse – at the Camaragui community close to La Pedrera. Like many indigenous communities, it is made up of a mix of ethnic groups and languages .- Mirani, Tanimuka etc. Intermarriage between groups is seen as healthy and prevents disputes over territory between different tribes. The kids speak several languages including some Spanish. The community were very friendly and welcomed us to see the dance, we bought some snacks as gifts. The community would really welcome tourists, though very few foreigners come by here. This night they are dancing a Mirani dance – it will go on until 5am – to celebrate the different animals for the hunt. The dancers take chew mambé – ground coca leaves – smoke pure tobacco, pineapple chicha (mildly alcoholic hooch) and some other local hallucinogenic drugs. A bit like dance party in Ibiza, then!

The Rio Caquetá in La Pedrera. The town has a wild west reputation and has gild miners and smugglers who are trying to shift cocaine to Brazil, often at night in boats. There is also an army base here, but it's hard to see how they can stop smuggling with such a vast area of jungle. — The Rio Caquetá in La Pedrera. The town has a wild west reputation and has gild miners and smugglers who are trying to shift cocaine to Brazil, often at night in boats. There is also an army base here, but it’s hard to see how they can stop smuggling with such a vast area of jungle.

The wide Caquetá River at Curare, just below the Cordobá Raudal (rapids) about 30 minutes upriver from La Pedrera

The Cordobá raudal, looks easy enough but strong currents and whirlpools claim many lives.

Jungle house in Curare, a charming village 30 minutes upriver from La Pedrera.

La Pedrera from the river, it has around 1,000 permanent inhabitants, and quite few passing through.

La Pedrera is close to hills formed by the rocky Guiana Shield, ancient landscapes going back billions of years.

Angosturas, a small community of maybe 400 people close to La Pedrera. — Angosturas, a small community of maybe 400 people about 30 minutes by motorboat from La Pedrera.

The school bus is a boat in Angostura... — The school bus is a boat in Angostura…

Flying on the old 'carguero' DC-3 to get there. These cargo planes fly from Leticia and Villavicencio. There is a weekly TAVA flight that usually travels on Wednesdays Villavicencio, Taraira, La Pedrera, Trarapacá, Leticia. Then returns on Thursday Leticia,Tarapacá, La Pedrera, Taraira, Villavicencio. You can buy tickets at the TAVA offices at Villavicencio airports or Leticia, they cost around US$100 for a trip. Or call them on +57 8 666 1542, or +57 314 381 4175. There are also many small Cessna planes that turn up announced at La Pedrera and often have spare seats, usually at around US$100/seat. — Flying on the old ‘**carguero’ DC-3** to get there. These cargo planes fly from Leticia and Villavicencio. There is a weekly TAVA flight that usually travels on Wednesdays Villavicencio, Taraira, La Pedrera, Trarapacá, Leticia. Then returns on Thursday Leticia,Tarapacá, La Pedrera, Taraira, Villavicencio. You can buy tickets at the TAVA offices at Villavicencio airports or Leticia, they cost around US$100 for a trip. Or call them on +57 8 666 1542, or +57 314 381 4175. There are also many small Cessna planes that turn up announced at La Pedrera and often have spare seats, usually at around US$100/seat.

Loading up fuel at La Pedrera. This DC-3 has refitted turbo-prop motors. The original radial piston motors are rarer and hard to maintain.

An air ambulance waiting to take a pregnant woman to Bogotá, right, and the TAVA 'office' (a shipping container) in Leticia, left. — An air ambulance waiting to take a pregnant woman to Bogotá, right, and the TAVA ‘office’ (a shipping container) in Leticia, left.

Many planes crash on these routes...this at Tarapacá. — Many planes crash on these routes…this at Tarapacá.

Mother and child in Puerto Cordoba, left, 'capitan' of Camaratagui community, centre, and traditional healer in Curare, right. — Mother and child in Puerto Cordoba, left, ‘capitan’ of Camaratagui community, centre, and traditional healer in Curare, right.

One comment

Jim Chase

22nd November 2019
12:08

How did you find lodging accommodations on your trip? Were there any available in La Pedrera? Were there any stores to buy food in La Pedrera? Were there any restaurants there? Can I purchase bottled water in La Pedrera?

I am thinking of a conducting a scientific expedition, looking for termites in the area of La Pedrera and surroundings. Is it easy to find guides and water transportation. Is it safe? I have traveled in and around the jungles near Mitu, Leticia and Inirida and found them all quite safe.