Is Bogotá safe? 2023

“I’m visiting Latin America. Is Bogotá safe?”: the question pops up regularly on social media. Colombia’s capital is a mega-city of nine million people and spread over 1,600 kilometres squared (600 square miles) with extremes of poor and rich. Parts of the city are very dangerous, others much less. According to recent data, Bogotá is safer than most other cities in Colombia (including Medellín) – but is still a large gritty city with plenty of crime. Your safety also depends

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Colombia’s fantastical fossils – and where to find them

Colombia had some freaky fauna in its pre-history, from giant sloths, weird mammals, biggest-ever snakes and crocodiles to ferocious marine reptiles. Here’s a guide to getting on the fossil trail and exploring the lives of these ancient beast, many of which were unique to South America. Don’t expect Smithsonion-style mega-museums: palaeontology is not well funded in this part of the world. But fossil sites like Villa de Leyva and The Tatacoa Desert unique finds, and local palaeontologists and keen amateur

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Burundanga – it’s bad and it’s back

In Colombia you’ll hear about scopolamine, AKA burundanga , “Devil’s Breath” or “borrachero”. And perhaps you think these druggings only happen to sex tourists. But anyone can fall victim, including local people, seasoned travellers and expats settled in Colombia. You can be ‘scoped’ in a park, in a café, in the street, or on a bus, or even during a Spanish lesson. On the other had around 5 million tourists and visitors come to Colombia every year, and only a

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Hiking up to Bogotá’s Cerro Aguanoso

The impressive slab of Andean mountain that dominates downtown Bogotá is Cerro Aguanoso, a 3,500 meter (11,500 feet) peak that is the highest of the Cerros Orientales bordering the city, just south of La Candelaria. The return hike from Guadalupe Sanctuary is around 3 or 4 hours depending on your speed. Kids can also enjoy the hike, but bring warm jackets as the wind howls over the peak most days. The trail opens Saturdays, Sundays and Festivos (Bank Holidays) but

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Getting on Bogotá’s buses

Colombia’s capital has a vast bus network that reaches every corner of the city. But being Latin America’s most congested metropolis, many journeys are slow. You might want to take a good book to read. Here’s how to make the most of Bogotá´s buses. This was posted in June 2023, so check links for updates. For other transport stories from the Big Bog see: Make Driving Fun, or Bicycle Tribes of Bogotá, or Dying for a Breath of Bogotá Air,

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Venezuela’s incredible Orinoco river delta

In 2022 I worked with Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF) in the delta of the Rio Orinoco, known locally as the “Delta Amacuro”, supporting local health services. This vast wetland of swamps and jungle on Venezuela’s Atlantic shore is home to the Warao, one of the country’s largest ethnic group. This blog was published by MSF in May 2023. Rounding a bend of the Rio Orinoco, we startle a large river dolphin that leaps high in front of the boat. It hangs there

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Bogotá Hiking: Quebrada La Vieja

Hike to the beautiful Cerros Orientales (Eastern Hills) up the easily accessible Quebrada La Vieja. Here’s some photos and practical advice on how to safely enjoy one of Bogotá’s best excursions, open most days of the week. And it’s free.

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